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Ogmore, Vale of Glamorgan

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Some points of interest relating to the area around the Pelican within the ancient Lordship of Ogmore

OGMORE (The Origin of The Name)

In old Welsh, the word for "SALMON" is "EOG" and a river estuary often was referred to by the word "MOR" as in the French "MER" (SEA) or the English "MERE" as in Windermere etc. This applied to other stretches of water. So the ancient name "EOG MOR" denoting "SALMON WATER" when transcribed by the monks in old charters and documents from hearsay became OGGEMORE to OGMORE and this became the accepted name. The incorrect name "OGWR" was a lazy spoken variation appearing about 1600 in print as "OGOR." The River Ogmore was once one of the best salmon rivers in Wales, according to A.G. Hausard, prior to the Industrial Revolution and the resulting pollution

HEOL-Y-MIWR (The Solidiers Road)

Alongside the inn, a road climbs up to the Southerndown Golf Club. This road follows a well-defined ancient track, dating at least from Roman times, from Groes Antony in St. Brides Major across the present golf links on Ogmore down to the ancient ford on the River Ewenny beside Ogmore Castle and the stepping stones. The road continues accross the floodplain to the suspension bridge (the original home of the stepping stones) where it crosses the River Ogmore into Merthyr Mawr and on to meet the old Roman road (The old stage coach route)

THE ALMSHOUSE COTTAGES

Known at one time to have been used as Almshouses and traditionally to have been associated with some notable people. In one of the cottages lived the TWRCH brothers in the 16th Century. They worked the famous Sutton Stone quarries at what is now Ogmore-by-Sea. Richard and Gwilym Twrch quarrelled and Richard left to study architecture in Italy. On his return to Wales he was commissioned in 1559 by Sir Richard Bassett to design the remarkable Italianate porch at Beaupré Castle, St. Hilary, which was completed in 1600. This actually predated the introduction of the Italian style of architecture into Britain by Indigo Jones as the "Palladian style" a few years later, in another of the cottages, Madame Adelina Patti, the opera singer, "Sang for her Supper" while staying at Waterton Court

OGMORE FARM

One of the oldest established working farms in Glamorgan although the present farmhouse dates from the 17th Century. A lease of the farm is known to one John Walsh as long ago as 1490.

STAR COTTAGE

Once an inn and home of the ferryman, close to the river and castle, it has several rare or even unique features. These include a "COFFIN DOOR" on the half-landing through which the deceased could be lowered to be taken out of the cottage, made necessary by the tiny staircase. The massive external chimney structure covers a very large hearth, for the size of the building, at the end of the single long ground-floor room

A Local Story

Over the river and into her arms went the bold lover of Ogmore

by

WILLIAM WILLIAMS

DURING THE conquest of the South Wales coast, the Normans halted for a brief period on the banks of the Ogmore, where they built three castles at Ogmore, Newcastle and Coity. William de Londres built Ogmore Castle as early as 1116 on the south bank of the Ewenny, a short distance above the confluence of this river and the Ogmore.

He selected the site because the slower moving tidal river could easily be diverted to form a natural moat for his stronghold. It also served as the best lookout for guarding the fords across the two rivers. Even today through the hole in the solid masonry, the river can be seen.

Ten years later, his son, Maurice de Londres, built the keep, the walls of which are six feet wide. It is built of large irregular borders set in brown mortar. The keep was necessary to guard the confluence of the Ogmore and the Ewenny Rivers. The castle was not complete in one period. One building was added in Tudor times, and kept in repair until the 19th Century as a court of justice, a prison and also to receive court fees, rents and other dues.

Though additions were made, the original defences were not entirely swept away and the ditch protecting the south and west side of the ward retains its depth to eight feet. Thus we can trace the growth of this rare "Ring Motte" castle, a living copy of many such little forts portrayed in the Bayeaux Tapestry.

Ogmore Castle formed an important link in the defensive system of the Ogmore estuary. When attacks were threatened, a signal could be flashed to Newcastle and Coity Castles and the assistance could be sent because of the three forts were within supporting distance. This plan was known as the 'Ogmore Triangle'.

An inscribed pillar establishes the gift of the land to an unknown Celtic Saint before the coming of the Normans. It was found by the de Londres family. This can now be seen in the National Museum for Wales, Cardiff. It reads: "Be it known to all that the Arthmail has given this field to God and to Fili, the Bishop".

The Welshman in the Vale lived fairly peaceably under the Norman rulers, and this rendered many castles unnecessary, so the importance of Ogmore declined. The ambitious William de Londres did not relish being a tenant under the Lord of Glamorgan, so he pressed westward and conquered the Lordship of Kidwell where he built one of the best castles in Wales; he also conquered Ostermouth in Gower.

William's son, Maurice, also spent much time in Kidwelly, where he added to his evil reputation. When Gruffydd ap Rhys received important information that the Normans were preparing to launch attacks on his home in Cardigan, the Welsh Chieftan hurried to North Wales to recruit reinforcements, leaving wife Gwenllian, to face the enemy.

The attack was made earlier than expected and Gwenllian bravely led her army, was defeated and captured. Maurice showed no mercy and had her executed on the battlefield at the foot of a mountain called Mynydd-y-Garreg. This field is still known to this day as Maes Gwenllian or Gwenllian's field.

Today Ogmore Castle commands 52 stepping-stones across the ford of Ewenny and Ogmore rivers. These stones were built for the convenience of a love-stricken girl who lived in the castle. Her lover lived across the river at Merthyr Mawr, and their tryst was impeded by tides and floods. The stepping-stones accomplished their purpose. The lovers married in July 1233. the bridegroom was William de Breose.